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Hear, hear!

I've been supporting IS/IT systems since the early 70s. If there is one thing that has remained constant, it is that there is always more to learn, and everything changes (okay, that's two constants! ;)). So I am always using Bing Google either to learn the facts, or to verify what I think to be fact, still is fact.

Remember, Bing and Google are your friends. They are also my major sources of information. The QVLs I linked to are specifically for the ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E motherboard you listed above. If you have a question about one of the CPUs listed, plug that CPU into Bing or Google to learn more about it.

Note that most motherboard makers maintain QVLs (qualified vendors lists) for all their boards for both CPUs and RAM. These lists include CPUs and RAM the makers have tested and certify are compatible with that specific board. You should buy a listed CPU. There are too many RAM makers and models for board makers to test and list them all. So you don't have to buy listed RAM but you should buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM to ensure compatibility. Your QVLs can be seen here.

BT, USB 3 and wifi AC are motherboard functions, not processor. What Chips Have Intel Virtualization Technology?

The builder has the key regardless the type so it is always a matter of trust. The difference is what the "end user" (consumer) does with it. I would stick with 16GB of RAM. Since you don't game, you don't need that CPU. Playing YouTube videos takes very little horsepower. If you fax a lot, you might consider a multi-function printing device. It will have a the necessary phone modem built in.

Not sure what you mean by privacy of the key. If someone else is building this for you, all you can do is trust they will do it right. Note that OEM versions come in several formats from DVD, to downloaded file, to flash drives. But they all come with a unique key that should be handed over to you (with any disk or drive) when you get the computer. As for price, I charge $100 - $150 to assemble a computer and install Windows. Free if family or friends.

Great! Now I recommend you visit the webpage for you motherboard and download the manual and become familiar with the precautions and locations of the various mounting holes, connectors and components while you wait for delivery. You can do the same with your case manual and power supply.

I think many, including yours truly, would argue that going AMD is not "better". That Intel processor provides excellent support for VM environments. Yes, they cost a little more but the fact is, the processor is just one component among many. Going with a less expensive processor of equal capability and quality does not significantly lower the over all costs, especially once you spread those costs over a normal 5-year life expectancy of the computer. Please note I am not saying Intel is "better" either. I have nothing against AMD and am not "brand loyal" to Intel. I am saying the i7-8700K is a fine, fully capable and reliable processor that will serve you well. And I am saying both makers make excellent processors and no one brand is better than the other. If one wants to compare processors, pick specific models to compare one-on-one, preferably in a "blind test" to eliminate biases, for it to be a valid comparison. Not entire brands. *** Not if it "breaks". If your computer goes up in smoke and you need to reinstall Windows as part of a repair process, it is perfectly legal to use the same license again. What is not legal with an OEM license is using the same OEM license on a "new" computer. Just keep in mind that a new motherboard constitutes a new computer. So "upgrading" a computer with a new motherboard (even because the old board failed) is the same as getting a new computer. And such license transfers are not legal. So if your current motherboard dies and you have to replace it as part of your repair, that is fine AS LONG AS you replace it with the same brand and model board, or the manufacturer's recommended replacement if the original is no longer available. You cannot use that opportunity to "upgrade" to a higher-end board. But still, if you can stretch the budget to spring for a full retail, I would consider it. That license is legally transferable, over and over again, to new computers over the coming years AS LONG AS you uninstall it from all previous builds. *** That EVGA is an excellent PSU but 850 watts is way way WAY overkill! As seen here you could easily get by with a decent 350W supply. This is particularly true since you are using the processor's and motherboard's integrated graphics and not an added graphics card. Note I even padded the results by pushing your CPU to 100% utilization. I happen to really like EVGA so IMO, that brand is a good choice. One thing I really like about them is they have extremely quiet fans - even when running at full speed! :) But if me, I would go with their 550W or at most, the EVGA 650W Gold which is currently on sale at MC for the nice price of $60. 650W (and even 550W) will give you plenty of headroom should you decide to add a power hungry graphics card some time down the road. You will even have enough head room to add a couple hard drives too (or better yet, SSDs). Understand power supplies tend to operate most efficiently with a 50 - 70% load. While these "Gold" certified supplies have a relatively "flat" efficiency response curve, a 850W supply with those components will likely be run at less than 30% loads most of the time when they are least efficient. So you will be wasting more money in energy costs. Note the savings in the purchase price going with the 650W supply will just about pay for the full "retail" license for W10 Pro! :) That's what I would do!

I was wondering how that "new" forum got my email address. The biggie for me is the "https". I like the secure link. :up::beer: Happy New Year, by the way. Woke up to -14.7°F here in the Omaha area! :crazy:

If all but one works, I don't see how re-installing Windows will do anything but set you months or years behind in security. And you rarely learn anything that way in order to prevent recurrence of the problem. This sounds more like a firewall or security program setting problem.

You typically can "map" external drives so you can drag and drop via "File Explorer" (formally Windows Explorer). Check this out.

I'd be curious to know what you decide to do, and then how satisfied you are with it. Keep us posted.

When you start talking about hot-swappable, you are talking about "fancy". Got an old computer you are not using or rarely use? Make a NAS out of it. That's what I did with an old XP system that refused to die. I loaded it up with drives, blocked Internet access to it through my router and viola, I had a NAS and kept my old system productive and out of the landfills. And since even a small mid-tower case will typically support 6 or more drives (many support 8 - 10 drives), expandability is not an issue. And in a pinch, I had a spare computer. And being a "network" attached storage computer, you can locate it anywhere there is network access, either by Ethernet or you can add an inexpensive wireless card to the computer and access via wifi. This way, it can go down in a basement closet (if cool) and out of sight. This is nice for "physical" security - in the event your home is broken into and the bad guys steal your computer, and the external drive/NAS sitting on your desk next to your computer. An actual NAS system will work, but they are dedicated uni-taskers and if you know who Alton Brown is, you know the only good unitasker is a fire extinguisher. If your NAS power supply dies, you typically have to buy a new NAS. If your PC NAS power supply dies, you just buy a new power supply. If your NAS network adapter dies, you typically have to buy a new NAS. If your PC NAS adapter dies, you buy a new adapter. Piece of cake. Plus you can put Linux on it - great for expanding your knowledge. And of course, Linux is free. If you are stuck on getting an actual NAS device, we need more information. What is your budget? Do you have the drives already and only need a diskless NAS? Or do you need a full NAS populated with drives? While meant to be more a comparative review, here's an informative read: 2017 Guide: The Best NAS Drives for Homes and Small Offices.

That is most likely your problem. Mic level inputs are much lower than line-level. And impedances are mismatched too. Line level inputs keep noise levels suppressed much better. Matching impedance does not allow for as much new noise to be introduced too, and dynamic ranges are much better reproduced. You should look into a line level output to mic level input adapter. Do note that mic input are typically mono. If the tapes have stereo, this device will merge the left and right.